Day 61… Thursday 1st June
38 police stops today – this is ridiculous! The officers are all very friendly and want to have a chat. Topics covered include the weather, the new Nigerian president, football and travel. A couple of officers wanted photos with us, our passports and Greta – I felt like a minor celebrity. Managed to find a fuel station at Takum after trying several in town. Most were still closed from the fuel panic buying or don’t sell diesel (gazoil as its known). There were sleeping goats lying around the diesel pump. Fuel sorted – such a relief. Very scenic road heading northeast. It was meat market day and we passed several open-backed pick up trucks loading up cattle and mopeds with goats draped over the vehicle/driver. One car we were behind had its boot fly open and a goat half fell out. We drove passed and told the driver who stopped to sort it out. Plenty of military check points near the border with Cameroon but no security concerns were raised. The only border option for us due to conflict in the south-western region of Cameroon so this border further north has added on around 300 miles to the trip. Bad road conditions then a newly constructed road at the end, then a long stretch under construction with diversion is place (gravel/dirt roads). A couple of make-shift barriers from rope by local kids asking for food/money or adults asking for a community tax. So far we have avoided passing anything over as it would only exacerbate an uncomfortable situation where travellers are seen to hand out gifts and does not help a country struggling economically. We asked several check points where the campsite was in Ngel Nyaki Forest (Nigerian Montaine Forest Project). Once we got the village, local villagers were very kind and arranged for a chap on a moped to show us the way. Beautiful campsite high up in the mountains (1,675m above sea level) with stunning sunset views. Greta has a clutch fluid problem so a local mechanic from the village is arriving first thing tomorrow.
Allen’s perspective…
Eastern Nigeria is by far the prettiest part of the country, and far more relaxed, away from the chaos of Lagos and surrounding towns and cities. It is farming country, which brings its own problems, farmers and herders killing each other. But it is a seriously under utilised part of the country which should be opened up for tourism. The hills and mountains are stunning and I’m sure a keen hill walker or two would love to tackle them.
Regarding the post title, we actually headed through Bali as part of a northern loop to get to our destination, but still cool none the less to have been to Bali.
As for Greta, well the car really is beginning to suffer more. First I reversed into a tree this morning… doh. Then she struggled to get up the mountain passes, with an ever growing loss of power. Thankfully this is Africa and there’s always someone nearby who can fix it.
